Nice car. I bought one new in ‘03 and regretted selling it. If it’s the 2.0, make sure the timing belt was replaced—if not, get it done ASAP. Not sure if it’s interference or not. If it’s the 2.3, no timing belt to worry about.
@Jory
2005 was the year they ditched the Ford Zetec 2.0 for the Mazda L 2.0, which has a chain instead of a belt. OP, if you can find a 2.3 or a 2005+ model, they’re much more solid.
Ellis said:
@Jory
2005 was the year they ditched the Ford Zetec 2.0 for the Mazda L 2.0, which has a chain instead of a belt. OP, if you can find a 2.3 or a 2005+ model, they’re much more solid.
Good to know. I’m not specifically looking for a Focus, just need something reliable around $2,000. Was checking out Hondas and Toyotas, but Focuses seem to be cheaper.
@Jory
Pretty sure it’s a 2.0 based on the manual windows—seems like a base model. Unless the 2.3 was an option for the base model? I asked the seller for an engine bay pic or if they know whether it’s a 2.0 or 2.3. Also asked if the timing belt has ever been changed.
@Jin
Timing belt on the Zetec doesn’t matter—non-interference. But if it’s the SPI, don’t bother. Those engines are junk and love to drop valve seats. If it’s got basic hubcaps, I’d bet it’s the 2.0 SPI (single cam), which you don’t want.
@Jin
The 2.3 was only available in California, Oregon, and New York in 2003. Everywhere else had the 2.0.
Jory said:
@Jin
The 2.3 was only available in California, Oregon, and New York in 2003. Everywhere else had the 2.0.
So you think it’s unlikely that this one has the 2.3?
Jory said:
@Jin
The 2.3 was only available in California, Oregon, and New York in 2003. Everywhere else had the 2.0.
So you think it’s unlikely that this one has the 2.3?
What state are you in?
@Jory
California.
Definitely get a PPI done. These are solid daily drivers, but at this age, stuff will need checking. They rust easily, so if you’re in an area with winter salt, look underneath.
And as mentioned, if it’s a 2.0, make sure the timing belt has been done. If not, budget for that.
@Teo
If this was in a salted state, it would have disintegrated by now.
Even in a rust-free area, check the hydraulic steering lines, frame rails (hard to see without lifting it), evap system, steering rack, and watch for transmission slipping if it’s an auto. Also, power windows love to die.
Great cars otherwise.
@Winter
I’m in California, so rust isn’t an issue. Also, it has manual windows, so no worries there.
I’d consider a PPI, but I’m actually looking for my younger friend who’s in a tough spot financially. The car is an hour away, and I’d only be able to check it out after work when everything’s closed. I know my way around cars (done a head gasket, timing chain, power steering rack, etc.), so I’ll just do my own version of a PPI for him.
- Check the suspension, shouldn’t squeak.
- Timing belt—if no proof it’s been replaced, assume it needs doing.
- Rust (if it’s minor, not a big deal for $1.8k).
- Test drive: Gears should shift smoothly, no hesitation or slipping.
- Other stuff is personal preference (A/C, tires, brakes).
If all that checks out, it should last 200k miles—just don’t forget oil changes. 
@Vern
Any way to check timing belt condition? Or do I just have to trust the seller if there’s no paperwork?
Jin said:
@Vern
Any way to check timing belt condition? Or do I just have to trust the seller if there’s no paperwork?
Trusting the seller is the worst option. Timing belts last around 80-100k miles, so if there’s no proof it was replaced, assume it needs to be done.
You can’t easily check the timing belt without removing covers, but look at the accessory belt—if it’s cracked, assume the timing belt hasn’t been touched either.
If it says ‘Split Port Injection’ on the valve cover, walk away. Those engines are garbage.
If it says ‘Zetec’ and has a black valve cover, you’re in luck. The DOHC Zetec is bulletproof. It has a timing belt, but it’s non-interference, so even if it snaps, the engine won’t be damaged. I don’t even replace mine until the water pump starts leaking.
High chance it’s a 2.3.