So my daughter’s 2017 Focus SE needs a new clutch right at 70k miles. It’s always had that little stutter these 2.0 autos are known for, but the other day it started slipping every time she stopped. Got the friction element B error on the dash. I went to help her, cleared the codes, and it drove fine for 20 miles home. I thought maybe it fixed itself since I’ve seen people here talk about clearing codes and never having the problem again.
The next day, she drove it to school fine, but later, after running errands, it started slipping again—guessing the fluid got too warm. Ford says it needs a new clutch and quoted $3400. An independent shop said $2000. Clutches I’ve seen are about $400–500. Anyone else had this done? What’s the best deal you’ve found?
@Jory
You can try taking the housing apart, cleaning out clutch dust, resetting everything, greasing the actuators, and hoping for the best. Here in Brazil, that process can be worth it since these cars hold their value better.
I used to work at Ford. Never owned an SE or SEL, only an RS, but I can tell you the clutch pack always needs replacing on SE and SEL models eventually. I’ve done over 15 replacements myself. The car drives much better afterward, so it’s worth fixing, especially with such low miles.
You could try spraying some brake cleaner and working the B fork until it moves freely. You’ll need a special socket, but the one on Amazon works fine.
Dakota said:
You could try spraying some brake cleaner and working the B fork until it moves freely. You’ll need a special socket, but the one on Amazon works fine.
Just a heads-up—using brake cleaner might work temporarily, but it can cause more damage long term. Check out Big Ben’s Cars and Cycles on YouTube. He explains why in one of his videos.
Dakota said:
You could try spraying some brake cleaner and working the B fork until it moves freely. You’ll need a special socket, but the one on Amazon works fine.
I’ve seen some videos on that too, but nobody really goes into detail. Do you spray the cleaner under the actuator motor, or do you need to take the motor off first?
@Jory
You have to remove the actuators and spray directly on the shafts. But honestly, if you’re taking out the transmission or bell housing, you might as well replace the clutch and forks while you’re in there.
Just replaced my son’s clutch in August. Went with the LUK clutch kit with shift forks from RockAuto—cost $575 with shipping. Also bought two quarts of Ford DCT fluid and replaced all three sensors on the transmission ($50 from Amazon). Didn’t need to update the seals, which would’ve required a special tool. I did all the work myself, but you’ll need an automotive scanner or FORScan to do the clutch relearn after. I use the Autel MX900. Let me know if you need any tips!
I had Ford do the repair. They replaced other parts and gaskets while they were in there. Cost me just over $3800. I didn’t shop around since I had a warranty and wanted it done by the experts, but it ended up being the most expensive option.